Leaving another city

I've spent three nights in Chefchouen and will be glad tomorrow to move on to Fes. This is a beautiful city and every PCV who visited here told me I should go. I never did, but now it's on the tour so I've checked it out.

And it is fabulous. There are nice little pensions in the medina (and boy, I checked out a lot of them) and many options for hikes.

The city is set on a hill, which isn't making my ankle happy, but hey, neither are my hamstrings. It's rather toasty, too, and I can't help but wonder what kind of wardrobe I should bring in order to do this in June and July.

I actually had quite a rough day today but it got better at lunch, when I had a fantastic fish tagine at a place called Chez Fouad. You'd better believe that's on the list now.

Eating is something I'm not good at when I am tracking down information. I get to a point and I'm famished, but I can see a goal. I forget the food, meet the goal and then the rush makes me forget about food. (Dana, I know you don't understand this.)

So I'll sit down at some point and think, "Gee, I haven't eaten anything since X," with X being at least a couple of mealtimes ago.

And of course, part of what I'm supposed to do in the first place is investigate restaurants. But, being in media for so long, it's part of my nature to go to an event and essentially not take part but just observe. So I'm standing there with a notebook and pen, writing down menu options, instead of tasting them.

It's a process. I'm trying. I'm not used to spending money, and I'm accustomed to looking for the deal. If there's sacrifice involved, well, I'm OK with that.

And even now, when I am told to try out the good stuff, I know I personally am just fine with the other, so, even though I'll write a recommendation for the group, I just can't bring myself to fork out the money for it. It doesn't matter that it's not my money -- it's the principle. I know I don't need it, so I just can't justify it.

It is a strange balance. I'm trying to think like a parent, which is hard since I'm not (and yes, I get asked this on a daily basis here). But I know the parents of my will-be travelers will have forked out a lot of money (even *not* by PC standards!) and I would think they'd expect their pride and joys to have accommodations that wouldn't freak them out. For example, the roach on my toilet at the PC hotel haunt of the skeeters in my current room . (My fault -- I left the door to the terrace open.)

But another part of me really wants to introduce the kids to what real Moroccans go through. I'd like them to stay in a house and forgo a bath for two nights. I think it'd be nice for them have to use a Turkish toilet, since so many in the world use them. Let them travel in grand taxis, smashed together four across the back seat. Thousands of Moroccans do it daily, and, quite honestly, it can be a lot of fun.

I feel like if we're walking down the street and someone invites us for tea, we should be able to do that. After all, it happens all the time here. You meet someone, you go have tea. It's so natural, and it's really awesome. I mean, come on. Where in America can you essentially say "Hi, how are you?" and immediately be invited over for food? It's the culture here, and I want the kids to know it.

On that note, that's another reason I haven't eaten much. I've been having tea, either at cafes talking to potential guides or -- in one case -- when I went with the hotel owner (who's maybe 30) to his mom's house.

My Arabic is improving, which is cool. I have learned a few new words and am able to at least explain what I am trying to do. I've had a few hitches, though. Today I went to the hospital to try to find out what to do if "there is a problem with the children" when I return this summer.

The reply, in French, was quite long and, with the help of someone else, I finally was able to understand that he thought I'd asked about the medical problems *Moroccan" children face. It was an interesting topic, but it wasn't at all relevant.

And that's another thing you just smile through as you take another sip of tea. Everyone has their opinions about, for example, my itinerary, the best guide, the ways of transport, etc. I hear them out, practicing listening more than anything (I really am following more conversations already!) and just sip tea.

Anyway, tomorrow, I head on to Fes. More later.