Killing time in Kenya

Lioness!

Since I haven’t taken much time off in the past few years, I’ve got a lot stockpiled and I’ve tried to schedule some. Last week, I had a plan to go to see gorillas sin Uganda and Rwanda, but there’s stuff going on in both those countries and security where I work suggested it wouldn’t be the smartest thing to hit either country, so I updated my plans and spent a week in Kenya instead.

Due to changing tickets and all, the travel part was brutal despite on-time flights (rare for the airline, I hear) but the trip was quite cool. I met up with a friend who works there and her rescue dog, who’s a gorgeous German Shepherd. Poor thing was kept in a small cage for years and only let out at night to play security.

But the bulk of the trip was a five-day safari, starting in Masa Mara, which is about four hours outside of Nairobi. I traveled with a tour that welcomed solo folks, and surprise surprise five of the travelers were solo travelers. We did have one very young Italian couple (who were late for everything, including 45 late for the original hotel pickup) but the other five were traveling alone. That’s a first for me, with the exception of one trip I did that was only for women traveling alone. Usually I’m the only person traveling by myself in any size group, so this was a treat.

Everyone was super nice and our driver/guide was amazing, too. Poor guy – he got more than he bargained for. His name was Joseph and he had the unfortunate luck to have not one but two flat tires. I have never been on a group tour and had a flat but we had them on consecutive days – one on the highway (beat up though it was) and one inside a park. Fortunately not at a place where there were predators.

Feeding fish

That one was rough. The highway one was easy, because the road was flat and there were big rocks around so we secured the Landcruiser from rolling. The one the next day (and fortunately, the safari Landcruisers carry two spares), we were in a grassy area of the Nakuru national park and there was not a rock to be found. As a result, just when Joseph had jacked up the vehicle enough to remove the flat, it shifted and collapsed. He then had to get this kind of super jack thing that looked like a giant plumber’s wrench. It stuck somehow on the back bumper and, had we had the vehicle secured, would have been easy. But no. Every pump he made, he’d have to hammer some little catch in so that it would stay up, and every time it got jacked up even one step, the mechanism slipped a bit.

In the end, Joseph had to call another tourist Landcruiser for help. Someone with two guides came with their jack, something that worked as blocks and some spare hands. All told, it took about an hour to change that one. And as a result of that, we had to call it with only four of the Big Five – we’d had gone hunting for the elusive leopard but ran out of time.

Lazy lions

But it was still awesome. Although I’ve done a safari or two before, this time, we saw a chess match that was a lion kill the first morning. It was fascinating to see play out, because the first thing we found was an alpha male just hanging out under a tree early in the morning. In these safaris, the guides all talk to another and there will be a congregation of Landcruisers (and they are all Landcruisers) wherever big critters were spotted.

That morning, we were with a group on one side of a small river, and there was a big, big herd of water buffalo on the other side. There was a small pack on our side, too, but initially our draw was the male lion, who was several football fields away from the river and the herd. But the initial draw lost our interest quickly, because we noticed about five lionesses on the other side of the river. They’d been stalking the herd and had split the small group on our side from the larger group on the other.

Rhino crossing

We got lucky, but one in the herd didn’t. The lionesses split, with one coming up from the side to stalk an individual calf. The ones in the back moved slowly up, and they basically encircled this one really young calf. Mama buffalo, and then Daddy buffalo, came to the defense but it went on and on. That calf survived the day, but another one stumbled and when it was down, the lionesses pounced – breakfast. We –and probably 20 other Landcruisers of tourists – watched the meal, first the young cubs, then the moms and, eventually, the alpha do-nothing male, who wandered up in time to run everyone else off and dine. It was really pretty gross; I couldn’t get good pictures of him eating the meat but I watched him through the binoculars and let’s just say ripping a raw steak off a corpse with teeth isn’t pleasant.

At another point, we were driving through the Naivasha park and one in our group shouted “Lioness!” Even though we’d been driving slowly, only she had seen this very large lioness approaching the road. We backed up and turned around to watch as she climbed on a low branch of a tree and called out. Not really roars, but kind of grunts. But that was very cool because if I’d had a yardstick I could have scratched her ears from my window. The animals get very close and, really, don’t seem to mind the vehicles.

Baby zebra!

Well, once they did – and scared me to death! I had never seen a hyena until the first evening – they come out at night – but the second day at lunch, as we looked for a shade tree to picnic under, we turned on a small path and a hyena absolutely leapt up out a small pool of water. It was right out my window. We hadn’t come close to hitting him or anything, but he was surprised to be woken up from his midday nap. 

One of the parks – I think Nakuru – had tons of really amazing birds. I was enthralled with them and the 25-year-old American on the tour asked if I was “going to become a bird lady after this.” I said I just might! We went out on a small boat to see hippos and the guide threw a fish out in the water so an eagle could swoop in and grab it. It’s a pretty amazing sight to see. They had kingfishers, ibis, herons, pelicans (one swooped over my head so close its feet almost hit me), eagles, flamingos, and a bunch more. It’s pretty easy to figure out why people like to watch birds.

Back in Nairobi, I went to the national museum and they had a full-on display of birds in Kenya and surrounding countries. I had no idea there were so many kinds and there’s no way I’d be able to tell the difference between X and Y of some species. Brown bird, another brown bird.

All in all, I had a great time and think I picked a good tour company. (There are so many, and the itineraries are all the same.) But I do still want to see the gorillas, so I hope that can happen next year.

Two out of three in Four

 My second road trip is in the books! More lemurs, hiking, chameleons and vegetation. This place, Andasibe, is maybe five hours away, but that doesn’t mean it’s far; it just means the roads are that bad. I went with a small group of five people, which is a good size. It cost a little more than I’d planned but there are only three places that are feasible as road trips, so I figure I’m front-loading my travel. In four months, I’ve knocked out two of the three possibilities.

Of course, there is plenty of in-country travel, but the roads limit what’s possible by car. I can think offhand of three weekend trips I want to do, but the involve flights. Those will come later, like maybe one in September. There’s one person here who wanted travel buddies so I signed up.

Andasibe was pretty cool – we did a night hike and saw the smallest lemur, which is about squirrel size. We also saw the largest, which is the size of a small human. There’s just an incredible range. The brown ones are very social and hang out in groups. The big black-and-white ones lounge in trees and communicate very loudly with what seem to be screams. The guides have recordings on their phones, so you’d hear the electronic version, which would send off a loud cacophony of ear-splitting howls that lasted for minutes. I’ve no idea what they were saying to each other, but they were decisive in saying it.

Besides the lemurs, we went to a crocodile farm of some sort. It was on the property of the hotel I’d preferred, but one of the travelers in our group was insistent of staying in the higher-priced one (which didn’t include breakfast, I might add). When we arrived to the crocodile place, he took a look at the lodge and said that it was super nice. I was like yeah, that’s why some of us voted to stay there!

I’d never seen so many crocodiles, and really had no idea they were more or less pack animals. There were several groups of the most giant dinosaurs I’ve seen still living. I cannot imagine how much they weighed or what might happen at feeding day. We weren’t to witness that; we just saw a bunch of them loafing around and sunning themselves. I was a bit jealous.

The place also had baby crocs. I don’t know of they bred them or what, but man, there were a lot of them. The little ones were cute like a baby dinosaur would be. At one point, we walked – one by one – over an Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom rope bridge, only not so high. But just like the one Short Round crossed, this one had crocs underneath it. Fortunately, no one had to “hold on” and “go for ride” -- we all made it across.

This group also visited the chameleon place again, the same place I’d gone to with Steph last month. It was just as cool – I really am fascinated with those things. The geckos were possibly the most amazing with their disguises, though. The guide would reach into a cage, pull out a log and start talking about a kind of gecko. We’d listen intently, completely blind to the fact there was a living, breathing gecko on the log; it just totally blended in and we didn’t see it until he’d point it out.

The night hike was similar – a guide would run ahead and then call us, pointing to something that there is no way on God’s earth any of us would have ever spotted by ourselves. He’d just walk by and say oh, here’s a tree frog and there’d be this 2-inch frog six feet away. At one point, he found a tiny, tiny chameleon, like smaller than my little finger. He was just walking and then stopped short. Every time he did that, we’d all look around and try to find whatever it was, but we never did. He’d patiently point it out and then it’d be like, wow, how on earth?

Now I am settled in until mid-February, when I am taking actual leave instead of a long weekend. I signed on for a gorilla tour and asked several people I knew, but no one could go. I’d written it off as having to go on another group tour alone and then the travel person here asked about the Andasibe trip. I said sure, I’d go, and by the way, do you want to see gorillas? In no way did I think she’d come but to my delight she said yes, so we’re head out.

It's hard to believe that trip is now in less than a month; January has flown by. After that, I don’t expect to take any more vacation until my R&R – predicted to be in July or so – but the same (or at least a similar) group expects to do the third road trip over Memorial Day Weekend.  

The heat is on: perfecting popcorn

My apartment is fantastic. Granted, right now, my kitchen ceiling is dripping, but that’s because the apartment above mine has a leak in the dishwasher; it’ll get fixed. But in general, I really love my apartment, and the kitchen is wonderful. It’s got a fridge and a giant freezer. This is because of our frequent power outages, I think, or maybe because stuff isn’t available all year so you’re encouraged to buy a lot when you find whatever it is you want.

Sad cookop results

Friday, I bought a little convection oven-type thing. It’s not a legit high-end appliance, but it will come on with the generator, which is a step above the oven that came with the apartment. Like the air conditioning, that oven isn’t on the generator, so now I can make toast no matter what. The downside to the stove is that the cooktop isn’t especially hot.

I also have a hotplate that works with the generator and while it’s marginally hotter than the cooktop, my early efforts to make popcorn proved unsuccessful. And by that I mean really, really bleak. I cook popcorn on the stovetop, using just a little bit of oil and then adding, post-pop, a lot of spices. Salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, Tony’s or Slap … it’s addicting. And it’s a pretty quick and easy after school snack that’s really not bad for you.

But man, my cooktop. I tend to use a small fist of popcorn kernels, which makes about one overflowing bowl with just a few unpopped kernels, but this cooktop just doesn’t get hot enough. My tea-making has also been less than stellar, but at least tea you can steep. Popcorn, not so much.

My microwave also operates on a generator so I sought out a way to nuke the kernels. Although I had never tried it, I’d heard of it. Unfortunately, my understanding had been that it involved using paper lunch sacks, and not only have no source for those but I also have no interest in contributing to the trash piles here. Recycling is not a thing, though I do my best.

So dadgum easy

An internet search for directions yielded the site “Downshiftology,”which suggested that not only was microwave popcorn doable, it was doable in other ways that didn’t included trashing the environment. One suggested way was to toss kernel into a glass bowl and put a plate on top of it. It was such a simple method it seemed like something I should have thought of on my own, but why would I? I don’t own glass bowls!

Suggestion No. 3, and the Downshifter glossed right over this, was to use a “stasher” bag. Anyone heard of that? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Yeah, me neither, but, after doing an image search, I discovered I had a useable one. It’s just a silicone baggie. I had no idea there was a proper name. I thought “silicone baggie” was the proper name.

Mmm...pop

And ya know what? It works! It’s ridiculously easy to put in a little oil (which is optional but I do it), a small fist full of kernels and hit “add 30 seconds” four times on the microwave. I’ve yet to figure out how to work the microwave any other way, and it works.

The cleanup is easier, too, because, although the silicone baggie gets super, super hot, it doesn’t sizzle when I throw it in the sink. Or when the leaky ceiling drips on it.

Sometimes it’s the little things. Popcorn is a real thing here. Last week we had a Christmas party and I manned the popcorn table. We ran out from time to time, and the line just stacked up and the people waited patiently – no one wanted to miss out on the popcorn.

I will freely acknowledge the goofiness of a popcorn cooking method changing my snacking ways but it’s a great snack. It might not be a game-changer, but I just cannot get over how easy it was.

Leapin’ Lemurs!

It took three months, but I’ve seen lemurs here on the fourth largest island in the world. Well, on an island off the island, to be more specific.

 

Blessed with my very first non-Foreign Service visitor, I went to Mantasoa, which is the closest “road trip” from home. It’s only 60-70 kilometers, but the drive was over two hours. It was definitely almost two, or maybe a solid two, when we turned off the main road, after which the last stretch lasted an hour but only around 15 kilometers. Yes, our roads are awful. We wound up hiring a car and a driver since my car hasn’t arrived and I was very thankful for that. Those roads would have ripped Cassian to shreds, and I don’t think I would have wanted to drive. “Awful” really doesn’t begin to describe how bad the roads are.

 

We stayed at the lodge there, which has a little “barge” that takes passengers on a 20-minute ride to a little island, where ringtail lemurs immediately welcome new arrivals. After a lovely dinner, that’s what we did on Thursday morning.

 

My friend and I were the only visitors at the time so we got a personal tour, a kilometer walk around the island, where we saw four of the five different types of lemurs living there. (We didn’t see the little nocturnal one.) Oh my, they were so very cute. There were lots of babies hitching riding piggyback on moms, and as I was taking pictures, I suddenly felt one jump on my head. It rode, parrot-style, with its little hands on my hat.

 

They’re just so cute. One species gave us a spectacular demonstration of movement – those things are on springs, it seems. Their leaps and bounds cover amazing ground; it was quite incredible to watch. (And even harder to capture on film, I learned.) Their paws are also incredible; there’s a large space between the thumb and the rest of the fingers/toes, so they can really get a grip. I could have watched them for hours.

 

But there was more to see on the little island, including colorful frogs, snakes and Nile crocodiles. It really was incredible.

 

The next day, we stopped at a reptile park, which was on the bottom of a very windy mountain road that pretty much had me queasy upon arrival, but I shook it off to again see lemurs. This time, we saw mostly brown common lemurs, which were super inquisitive and hungry – the guides bring bananas so we were able to feed them. Let’s just say I took lots of pictures.

That park was mostly a reptile park, so they also had frogs, geckos, snakes plus a host of chameleons, which were really amazing. The critters are kept in what could be called greenhouses; they’re super large cages that give lots of roaming room. There are plants and bushes everywhere and guests follow a guide to find them and see the varieties. And oh, my, the camouflage works. They are incredibly hard to spot, and then when you do, it’s a shock to realize how close you got without realizing they were looking at you the whole time. Once, I looked up and realized I’d been about to walk into one.

 

It was a lot of fun. I’d really waffled over which of three road trips to choose and that one won out because it was the closest. I’d really expected to have my car and figured that’d be an easier first excursion, as I fully expected to drive. It didn’t work out that way and I wondered if, since I hired a car and driver, I should have opted for a further-away place instead, but I’m glad that’s the one we did. It was really a lovely getaway.

 

Now it’s time to dig in. My car should be arriving soon, I guess, but there’s no hurry. The roads pretty much freaked me out and I don’t anticipate a lot of driving, but at least that will be an option. But a lot of the stuff to see – the baobab trees, Nosy Be, Saint Marie island – are all flights away, not road trips. I’m still trying to pace myself.

 

Right now, I’m not thinking beyond next week anyway because I have a DC-based class to do after work. It’s only Monday through Thursday, but it runs to midnight and unfortunately, there’s stuff I have to do in the office each day, so I can’t just work from home. Monday and Tuesday shouldn’t be too bad but ugh for the rest of the week. I thought I’d try to work from home on Friday since it’s a short day, but that’s the day of our office Christmas party, so I can’t skip it. But this time next week I should have recovered and be ready for Christmas. 

She snags seashells from the Seychelles

 Chugging along here in my new home. My apartment is lovely; I adore the fact I have a little yard and a wonderful patio. The landscaping – not my doing – is gorgeous and since it’s warm, there are beautiful flowers. Today I absconded with some lavender. I’ve tried to root some, but that hasn’t worked. Nor have the seeds I planted a but ago, but that doesn’t really surprise me. My thumb is not green, although I love to garden. The weather is changing, though, and the rains are coming so I may try again. I really would like a couple rosemary plants, which are year-round outdoor plants here.

 

My walks home continue. Today I had a gaggle of kids who wanted to walk and talk. I amuse them because my French is so, so bad. I tried to tell them where I lived (“over there”) but they didn’t understand, so who knows what I communicated. I feel bad because they really wanted the attention of the Tall White Redheaded Stranger, but I didn’t really want to slow down so they could chat, especially since I absolutely couldn’t communicate. Our office closes at 4:30, and if I am not on the road by 4:35 (I usually change shirts and shoes), the last leg is in dusk, and that’s a super crowded part where I’d rather be visible to all cars. So I tend to walk at a fast clip, lookiloos be damned.

 

It seems like forever since I’ve walked home, though, because the past couple weeks I’ve been trying to burn some leave. I spent one long weekend in the Seychelles and then most of Thanksgiving week in Tanzania/Zanzibar. Lovely! Of course, beaches usually are.

 

I find that I do very little, if any, vacation planning anymore and as a result, usually wind up in a less populated area with nothing much to do outside reading. And you know what? It’s fantastic! I wound up randomly taking the bus in Seychelles. I asked my AirBnB host for directions and then went to catch one, but I got SQUIRREL! distracted and didn’t remember if she’d told me to cross the street and catch it or get the one on my side of the street. I took a chance and made the wrong choice, but that’s subjective. I didn’t do what I set out to do, but I did plenty! I hit the city – Victoria – and wandered around taking pictures, which is my favorite thing to do. Later, I went to the beach and found some beautiful seashells.

 

Travel to the Seychelles was fairly easy. There’s a nonstop on a plane that continues to Dubai or Abu Dhabi. It’s only about two and a half hours, and the giant flight has very few passengers, like maybe 40-50. Apparently people get on at Seychelles and do that leg, but both directions there was no one sitting near me.

 

Tanzania, or at least Zanzibar, is about the same distance but the travel there is horrid because there’s no direct flight. Instead of another two-and-a-half-hour flight, it’s quadruple that. My flight left at 3:20 a.m. – the hour for fish, not people! – and I arrived in the afternoon to Dar es Salam but not to where I could catch the 2 p.m. ferry to Zanzibar; I had to wait on the 4:30 one. Then, there was a mix-up with my pre-paid driver (refund received) and, once I solidified a driver, a traffic jam. Essentially I got to the lovely lodging around 7-8 p.m. The following day, I was stupid tired. I woke up and went looking for breakfast, groceries and a snorkeling trip but once I went 2-for-3 on that, I essentially went back to my lodging and hung out by the pool. No regrets.

 

Eventually, I did book a snorkeling trip and did the thing where you chase dolphins (I have mixed feelings about this) and the snorkel and swim. I really needed the break, but I am paying for it now because the backs of my legs are peeling and itch.

 

The visa for Tanzania had been pretty challenging and I really didn’t know until I arrived that it went through. It did and it appears it’s good until November 2025. If that really is the case, I would absolutely go again. I just need to forget how brutal the travel was.

 

This is a hard place to get out of. I’m looking now for a trip in January or February, and a couple of places are two flights but still the journey is 20+ hours because of an 11-hour layover here or a 14-hour one there. We’re limited on the nonstops and I’m trying to save those for when I desperately need out.

 

In the meantime, though, I’m still enjoying it.

Settling in for a reunion

It’s my second weekend in my little apartment and I love it. It’s not too big, but plenty big for me – ang bigger than Baghdad, of course. Three bedrooms (one’s an office) and the same weird assortment of half-bathrooms as the big house. It does have one whole bathroom, though – including a bidet, tub and shower. The downsides to the big bathroom are that it’ll be chilly and there’s a step down from the toilet/bidet tub area to the rest of the bathroom. I’ve come close to face planting twice so far and stubbed my toe once. 

The kitchen is perfect for me. It’s got a table for two in it, right near a really big window leading to what could, I guess, be called sort of a balcony. If I was on the second floor or higher, it would be one, but I don’t know if it’s the same thing on the ground floor. There are four of these, all told, and all have those big metal safety shutters that envelope you in complete darkness when they’re closed. They each have screens but the one in the kitchen keeps popping back up. It’s still nice to have the window open, because it’s right across from the sliding glass door on the patio so it gets a good cross-breeze.

And that’s good because power failures are a frequent occurrence here. We have generators but our ACs and stoves are not on the generators. The cross-breeze is a good workaround for the AC. For the stove, it’s a bit harder, but we have hotplates to substitute the stovetop. No sub for the oven, so I may be looking at getting an air fryer or toaster oven soon.

 The early lesson is to cook when you have power, even if it’s not at all time to cook. The hotplates work fine but they are slow. Last Saturday, we barely had power all day, but Sunday it was on and I started cooking like a mad woman. Most weekday mornings we seem to be on generator and it takes a long time to cook eggs, so I go for pancakes. Yesterday,  though, we had it and I scrambled some up quick.

 It’s a hardship post, so I pretty much expected it. It’s not Peace Corps but I can cope because I did Peace Corps. Others don’t have that … gosh, I’m not sure what it is. I hate the word “resiliency” and I’m not even sure it fits. Low maintenance? One guy was railing about it last week and I just shrugged. He acted like he and his wife were the only ones going through it, but there are probably at least 10 other embassy employees in these apartments. And we have nice apartments with things like distillers. I discovered my neighbor works for another embassy in the neighborhood and she doesn’t have a distiller and has to buy water. I also have a more awesome yard than she does; her apartment is a studio.

 Yes, a yard! My first! It’s so cute; it’s not big at all. It has a little raised garden area and I’ve gone out and bought some seeds, watering bucket and a couple hand tools. It’s a start. However, it’s been super dry of late (and this has effects on the power) and the city has but a water ban in effect, so those seeds are just cooking now, I guess. The rains should start in a couple weeks. It has rained twice in the last three weeks, so it’s coming.

Meanwhile, I’m settling in. My air shipment came, but my boat shipments are still on the way. Inchallah, they will come on Friday. I’m looking forward to reuniting with my stuff, which I haven’t seen since I hurriedly packed out of Minsk what feels like two lifetimes ago. I literally do not remember what I have, although I am hoping for more clothes. I didn’t have as much packed in the air shipment as I thought and have only added two work shirts into my rotation. There must be more.

Although I know I have a bunch of rugs, I don’t have much of a clue what’s coming. Once in a while a random item I own will go through my head and I’ll think, wow, I get to see that again! For example, it crossed my mind that I own a little firepit! I’ve never used it. I bought it on the tail end of my tour in Istanbul, then went to Baghdad and Minsk and then Baghdad again – all apartments, no yard. Now I can use it! I have also remembered my collections of rocks, crosses and magnets and my two bespoke leather jackets. I won’t be wearing those any time soon – we’re southern hemisphere, so summer’s coming – but it’ll be nice to see if they still fit.

My current kitchen has LOTS of storage but I can’t remember what I own, other than some dish towels I got forever ago from Lands’ End. They are quite awesome, IIRC, and are way more than the dustcloth I tried to use in their stead. I had made popcorn and went to use the dishcloth as a trivet and it melted. Oops.

Two puppies and a fist bump

Settling in here in Tana, though I’m not yet in my permanent home. That’ll be next week, or at least that’s the plan. Not much goes according to plan. Right now, I’m got roommates, for example. This never happens, but the residence of one of my colleagues had a sudden need for a fix-it that will take months, so they needed to move here. We’re tight on housing and, as it turned out, the temporary place I am in is set to become her permanent residence, so why wouldn’t I just have them move in now? I mean, the place has six bedrooms.

This has been the second week and everything’s been fine. She and her husband keep thanking me for letting them stay here – the other house is being renovated as we speak – but, seriously, it’s not like it’s a sacrifice. The place is HUGE and there’s not only three of us but we could probably fit in another two or three without blinking, too.

Still, I am excited for my own apartment, if just that it’ll finally be somewhere that I will (or at least should) stay for the next 35 months. Plus, I visited a colleague in the apartment buildings who has the exact same floorplan and I am already mentally trying to figure out which carpet will go where.

It’s been so long since I’ve seen my carpets, though, that I can’t even remember how many I have. Anyway, those are not coming next week, but I think my smaller, from-Tallahassee shipment will. If that happens, at least I will get a change of clothes. While I really like the clothes that I have with me, they are all I’ve had with me since I’ve left Baghdad. When I pulled out the black pants and paisley purple shirt last week, I remember thinking, “I only have to wear this one time after today and then I can give it a rest.” I have so few clothing items that I’ve worn all my work clothes once a week since Baghdad. I am the opposite of fast fashion.

Since my 30 days of free shuttle service are up, I’m trying to walk home as much as possible. It’s a long walk, like five miles, and takes just over an hour. It’s also roughly the same as the shuttle takes just because of all the traffic.

There’s one guy who walks to and from every day, so I asked him to show me the way. There are a couple routes, but it’s basically, “You see that big thing in the distance? You walk in that direction.” The route is peppered with people and some stretch is on a road but for the most part it’s a little path between a canal and some gorgeous rice paddies.

All the people are super nice and will say “bonjour” or get a wave. The little kids seem more enthralled with seeing a white person, even though they see the other guy every single day. The first day, when I was figuring out the route, he said hi to a whole lot of people and many seemed to recognize that it was perfectly normal for him to walk through. A couple 20somethings gave him fist bumps. I later learned he has the reputation of being “the mayor” of the walk.

There are also street dogs everywhere. This is going to make my heart hurt on a daily basis; the dogs are so skinny. They seem friendly and no one throws rocks at them or anything. (Mentally, I compare this walk to my time in Peace Corps, and rock-throwing was common.) I’ve seen two who were pretty maimed, like not able to use all four paws. I want to gather them all up and spay and neuter them, give them vaccines and take care of them, but that’s hard to justify because the dogs are alongside people who are among the poorest in Africa. I don’t know how I’m going to make it out of here without a dog.

I’m already scouting for dogs. The walk home has all kinds of dogs. They all have the same look. They’re about Kocur’s size, but not as sleek. Skinnier, for sure. I’m already mentally naming one, so that’s a sign. And I learned there’s a doggie day care as well as a trainer, plus my new apartment building has a dog park. The zeitgeist wants me to have one, but my rugs might think differently. Well, if rugs could think.

Mostly, I’m wondering when puppy season is. My second day walking home, I was by myself. On the way, I saw two puppies, of which probably looked a lot like Kocur did as a puppy.  The other one was a skinny spotted one who was, of course, adorable. They were maybe 4-5 months old. But I passed, mostly because I still haven’t moved in my apartment yet but also because, well, I wasn’t sure if the puppies belonged to anyone. Getting nailed for dog theft on your second day walking home isn’t the best look when you plan to do it daily for three years.

I made it home puppyless, but missed one turn and made the journey a lot longer than it should have been (like a mile, but when you’re walking and the final stretch is uphill, that’s a long time!) but I got cheered when a guy gave me a fist-bump of my own during the journey!