Stereotypical Egyptian photo. From the museum. |
After toying with other days and locations – I wanted to go
somewhere with a flight that cost more than the usual $250 or so – I finally
decided to do the cruise itinerary in Egypt, which is from Aswan from Luxor. Note
I tacked on “itinerary” after that, as I did not take the cruise itself. I
priced a few (they’re all the same) and they seem reasonable on the face but
when you figure in the single supplement they were about $700.
I contacted ASTI travel (I think it’s American Star Travel Inc.
or something like that) and got them to price me an itinerary that allowed me
to see everything on the cruise itinerary, plus do a few things in Cairo that I
wanted to do. (Museum, souk and Coptic Cairo – I went to the pyramids in 2009.)
And it worked out well. I got to Aswan, way in the south,
around 7:30 in the morning and immediately headed to the dam with my guide and
driver. Had no idea the Nile had a dam, but has since the 1960s. The Nile, as
you might know, floods annually, which is about the only water Egypt ever gets.
The dam allows it to be regulated.
The dam is the second largest in the world, behind one in
China that apparently I missed the opportunity to see. Wiki blurb:
Greatest hotel sign. Ever. |
“Periodic floods and droughts have affected Egypt since ancient
times. The dam mitigated the effects of floods, such as those in 1964, 1973,
and 1988. Navigation along the river has been improved, both upstream and
downstream of the dam.”
Right on the lake created by the dam (Nasser),
there’s a temple called Philae, so that was the next stop. It was moved from a
couple kilometers away, something about the dam. (It’s a lot of history. I can
only absorb so much, especially around 9 a.m.)
From Wiki:
“The most ancient was a temple for Isis, built in the
reign of Nectanebo I during 380-362 BC, which was approached from the
river through a double colonnade. Nekhtnebef was his ancient Egyptian
royal titulary and he became the founding pharaoh of the Thirtieth and
last native dynasty when he deposed and killed Nepherites II.
“For the most part, the other ruins date from the Ptolemaic Kingdom, more
especially with the reigns of Ptolemy II Philadelphus, Ptolemy V
Epiphanes, and Ptolemy VI Philometor (282-145 BC), with many traces
of Roman work in Philae dedicated to Ammon-Osiris.
Cool photo but I have no memory of what this was |
Also went to the “Unfinished Obelisk,” which was begun in
some century BC but abandoned when they cracked it wrong.
The next day, I headed to more temples on the way to Luxor,
and can I just say I’m really tired of Chinese tourists? Oh my gosh. There were
just packs and packs of tourists everywhere, some land and some cruise-going. I
was one of very few who were not with groups.
At the Luxor hotel |
The sights on the way to Luxor included a lot of speed bumps
and Kom Ombo Temple Edfu Temple, then I got to Luxor to the Maritim Jolie hotel
(off Expedia) that was utterly fabulous. No, it didn’t have aa “do me” sign, but
it was quite a resort. I could have camped out there for a week, easily.
But the itinerary called and Luxor temple … oh, wow. Plus,
the Valley of Kings – tombs of Tut, several Ramses kings, and so on. Just
incredible. And Queen Hatshepsut’s temple, too. Man, just incredible.
On the drive, I noticed a couple of hot air balloons and
asked the guide about them. I had no idea it was an option, but he said he
could try to get me a spot and, around 6 p.m., he finally called to confirm.
I’d done one in Cappadocia and it was phenomenal, so I wasn’t
freaked out or anything. The big difference between there and Luxor was that in
Cappadocia, it’s a thing. There are scores of balloons up every morning, but in
Luxor there were fewer than 10. I was lucky to get a seat!
Screaming mummy (In case you hadn't guessed) |
Cairo, too, was incredible. The traffic, for one. Man, Istanbul
is bad, but I really think Cairo is worse. I went to three places and it took
from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. But the museum was completely worth it. They’re
opening a new one in a year or so (maybe this year, I don’t remember) and I
will totally have to go back. From what I understood, they have something like
5000 more pieces in storage because there’s no room for them now.
I bought the extra ticket to see the mummy room. Although
you couldn’t take pictures in there, they had one mummy in another room that
was “screaming.” Here’s a link to a story on that: http://www.foxnews.com/science/2018/02/12/mystery-screaming-egyptian-mummy-which-has-baffled-archaeologists-for-years-finally-resolved.html.
The mummies in the no-photo rooms were fascinating and nauseating at the same
time. I mean, I really was queasy. Looking at 4,000-year-old toenails, teeth
and hair can do that to you. Or at least it did it to me.
One of the dead had been buried with a small mummy, which
had been assumed for years to be her child. Here’s that story, pasted from https://cowofgold.wikispaces.com/Animal+Mummies:
“In the early days of archaeology animal mummies were
regarded as mere curiosities, often ignored or even thrown away after
evacuation. Some were misidentified as the mummies of children. The most famous
example of this is Queen Maatkare’s pet baboon. When her tomb was
discovered, there was a small, mummified bundle present at her feet, which was
initially believed to be her child. This puzzled archaeologists because Queen
Makare was a high priestess who had taken a serious vow of celibacy. If this had
been her child, it would have meant that she had, at some point, broken the
oath she had taken as high priestess, raising a slew of other questions
regarding her life. Whole stories, even a novel, have been woven around what
seemed to imply an illicit relationship. Finally, in 1968, an X-ray was done on
the small mummy, and it was determined to be her pet female baboon,
not a child.
“The ancient Egyptians loved animals and preserved their beloved pets in hopes that they would accompany their owners into the afterlife. When a pet died before its owner, the animal was often mummified and placed into the owner's tomb to await them so that they could be buried together.”
“The ancient Egyptians loved animals and preserved their beloved pets in hopes that they would accompany their owners into the afterlife. When a pet died before its owner, the animal was often mummified and placed into the owner's tomb to await them so that they could be buried together.”
You know, I really have nothing to add after that. There’s
no easy segue from “mummified pet baboon,” so I will just call it a night.