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Banyan tree with a temple thing | | |
Now there is one. Coming into a two-year tour in Guangzhou, I had a whole slate of South, East and SE Asia that I hadn’t visited. Since I’ve been here, I’ve
visited the Philippines, Mongolia, Bhutan
and even Kazakhstan.
My travels started in earnest about March 2014 (I can’t count Seoul
– nice, but not exotic enough to make this list) in Bangladesh. And what do you know,
with just one more to go – Brunei,
and I’ve no idea how/when I can get there – it circled back to Bangladesh.
I’m not sure whose fault that was. The whole issue confused
me during my entire three-day stay in Kathmandu.
Yes, I finally got to Kathmandu! (And of
course, I can’t get the dadgum song out of my head.) This had been in the works
for awhile, but I was really kind of freaked about it.
Seriously, I tried to get there previously. I’d even bought
tickets for Memorial Day, and then the April 25 earthquake happened, and China Southern
canceled my direct flight. I opted to go to Burma instead. Oh, yeah, left that
off the list. But Kathmandu remained on it,
and I finally repurchased flight tickets, though not through Expedia – I’m done
with that.
The thing is, China Southern either did away with
or cut back on its nonstop flights, so I had to go indirect. Being from Tallahassee, where even if you crash you still have to go
through Atlanta,
this wasn’t such a big deal, but the only flight I could get was on Malaysian,
that of the “go missing” flight.
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Rubble from Kathmandu temple |
So … Kathmandu on Malaysian
airlines. What could possibly go wrong with that, right?
Fortunately, nothing. I just got back and had an amazing
time. Granted, I’m dragging right now because my two-leg flight started at
midnight and ended at 2 p.m., but I’ve done laundry, loaded up my photos and
have eaten dinner. I’m trying to hold out to 8 p.m, after which I plan on
melting into bed.
Anyway, after Bon Jovi for the Mid-Autumn holiday, I decide
to do the rest of Golden Week – Chinese National Day – in Nepal. I knew I
wouldn’t have time to do any trekking to Everest Base Camp or anything like
that, but I figured even if I just wandered I’d be fine, assuming no other
earthquakes hit.
And they didn’t. I hired a guide (got the name from the Kathmandu embassy and would recommend the guy) and we
wandered through the valley for two and a half days. The rubble is phenomenal,
but plenty remains. I have to say I am so very tired of temples, but I saw more
temples. (Honestly, I don’t know or care about the differences between Hinduism
and Buddhism, but I do find the different art interesting.)
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For Zippy. I also saw Applebee and S.U.B.way. |
The religions – just don’t get. And I get those two confused
all the time, but we would go to one thing and Kumar would explain that this
was for the god of _____, and people would come and leave stuff. In one place –
and this completely blew my mind – there was a “living god.” He went on to
explain this ritual where 4-year-old girls go through the equivalent of beauty
and dare contests to be chosen/nominated/voted/not sure of the right verb as a
“living god.” At least until menstruation, anyway. Then they do it again. But
in the meantime, she is dressed up in an outfit that makes Jon Benet Ramsey
look like a redneck and kept in this courtyard, where her feet never touch the
ground. She’s either walking on velvet or being carried around. I just don’t
understand.
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Second-floor chicken |
And the kama sutra. Bhutan had penises, but Nepal had sex
ed carved into the temples. Never seen this before. Apparently the child brides
of the past were taken to the temple to look at pictures for a how-to guide.
They still stand today. And bend over, too.
But temples are the thing to do in Nepal, at least
if you’re not hiking, and I did temples. I went to 3-4 UNESCO sites and saw
lots of cracks in the rubble and beams holding this or that up. They really are
trying to rebuild, but how do you rebuilt something from the 17th
century.
The one temple that Kathmandu
was named for was completely leveled. Others still had the little deities
standing, but they were facing a pile of rubble. I also saw more rats than I
have since walking home from the Jakarta Globe.
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Predates the fuel shortage, I'm sure |
The Kathmandu valley is just that – a valley between
mountains, including the Himalaya. So we had
to transport back and forth between the places. Normally, this isn’t a problem,
but this time it was, and from what Kumar told me, it was all India’s fault.
Somehow, and I still don’t understand this, India and Nepal are in talks about this or
that (I tried to read some article, and “diplomats disagreed” popped up over
and over). As a result, there are protests and holdups. One of the holdups is
that India is not getting
fuel to Nepal
anymore. And this is where the fuel comes from, so there are few taxis. What
they have, though, are lines of taxis and buses – like 20, 30, 40 – lined up,
engines off, in phantom lines for gas.
The taxis that are running are gouging riders, especially
tourists, because they have no idea when they will get gas again, so they have
to make it worth their while. (And let’s face it, because tourists are easy
prey.)
One alternative is the city buses, which reminded me of Morocco’s. And
as much as I love Morocco,
the transport system is not enviable. It’s downright scary, but that’s what we
took.
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Loved the view |
The buses are very suspect, even before you realize they’re
crammed with three times the safe number of people. The count includes those
extra three people sitting in a two-person seat, the guys hanging on for dear
life outside the open door and the ones sitting on the roof.
This was my transport for two days. My guide kept
apologizing for it but it really wasn’t that bad. Again, it reminded me of Morocco. I
certainly don’t miss that part of Morocco, but I lived through that
and I made it through the weekend here.
On Day Three, we could only get to one other location and
just couldn’t get a bus, so that was it for the trip. Kumar wound up walking
home and I wandered back to some of the places I’d visited previously and
started spending money. I bought two pairs of pants and three shirts for
myself, but they’re not exactly the kind I can wear to work. I have a lot of trouble
splurging on myself. On one pair of pants – one I’d returned to after seeing
the first day – I had to, literally, sit myself down and talk me into it. They
were $5.
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Kama sutra temple. In case you thought I was lying. |
I didn’t get a yak shawl, which, now, I think is a shame. I
don’t wear shawls but have several; this was my reasoning in not getting one.
They were 300 rp, which is about $3. I haven’t worn the one from Bhutan once, so
I decided to skip it. Then I wound up with 700 rp left over. The changers
wouldn’t just give me $6 – they said their fee wouldn’t be worth it to me – so
I wound up spending it in the airport, on a 5-pack of Oreos, two baby canned
juices (pomegranate and pineapple) and a Twix bar. That was about $7. I would
have been better off with two shawls, even if I never wore them. Sigh.
The fuel crisis lingers, and it wasn’t limited to auto fuel.
Tourists restaurants were running low, shuttering them, and then on the way
back I got thrown for a loop at the airport. I’d gotten a notice the day I left
for Nepal
that the arrival of the flight to KL had been postponed by an hour. Not the
departure, just the arrival, and that confused me. But hey, I can roll with
that, right?
But when I checked into the airport, I got the explanation:
we had to pull over in Bangladesh
to get gas. There’s no airplane fuel in Nepal, either.