Happy Chinese New Year! It's the Year of the Horse.
I’m just back from Seoul,
which put me as one of the millions of travelers during the Chinese New Year.
When I bought the ticket, I pretty much just tried to go
anywhere I could get nonstop. I wound up in Seoul, which, as it turns out, also
celebrates the Lunar New Year, so lots of stuff was closed.
But no matter. I mostly just wander on vacation, and this
was no different. I had a good time, and thankfully, someone loaned me a heavy
coat before I left. I needed it.
Really, I was only there two days. My flight went fine, and
I even got to the airport fine. I wound up doing option No. 2, the metro,
because I am directionally inept and couldn’t find the ticket sales counter for
this express bus that goes pretty much from my front door to the airport. But
the metro was fine and not too crowded. Less than a buck for a 40-minute ride.
Once in Seoul,
it went better than expected. Found the bus into town, got money and got off at
the right stop. My flight had been about half an hour late, but that’s usually
not a really big deal.
Well, the instructions to the hostel were something like
“Get off at this stop, go two blocks and cross the street. It’s in the same
building as X restaurant.”
I got off, wondered which street to cross but saw X
restaurant a ways away, so I went directly to it. And couldn’t for the life of
me figure anything else out. I walked up, down and around trying to figure it
out and discovered nothing. Tried to ask the guy at the gate but he spoke no
English and waved me off.
There was a 24-hour Krispy Kreme nearby and seriously, I
thought I was going to wind up in there for the night. Then I asked some other
guy and he’d never heard of it, either, and even looked on his phone and came
up empty before asking a street cleaner if he had any idea where it was. That
man pointed me across a different street and sure enough, about 10 minutes
later, I was there.
Except in that 10 minutes, the host had left. It was then
after 11, and closing time for check in is 11. There was a note stuck on the
door for me to connect to Wifi and send an email, which would have worked if I
had, you know, a laptop or smartphone. I had neither, but fortunately the only
other guest in the hostel that night was there and let me in. I was so
relieved!
My big walking day was the next day, and even though it was
cold the weather was beautiful. I went up to the palace and the historical
museum. It was educational but as an English speaker I think I got ripped off.
There would be this display of a beautiful traditional garment and the display,
in Korean lettering, would be maybe 6-8 lines of text. The English translation
following would say something like “Prince’s costume.” I think I might have
missed much there.
Still, it was fun to wander. I popped into some restaurant
and ate around 4 p.m., recharged, and went again. Probably around 7 p.m. I just
was done. Fortunately their subway system is awesome and I really didn’t have
to walk all the way back.
By some scheduling quirk, I was the only guest in the hostel
that night, but the owner guy was there. I told him I’d wanted to do the DMZ
tour but it had been canceled. He looked puzzled, made a call and reported that
it was on and could pick me up at 7:30 the next morning. Done.
So, on a very drizzly and foggy day, I did that. It was
really interesting. I never realized how close Seoul
was to North Korea.
The guide person kept telling us all these awful stories
about North Korea, like how
they’d put up buildings to pretend there were people living near the border,
all happy, but that really the buildings were abandoned or how technically, North Korea was still at war with South Korea and
could nuke them at any time. (Spookily, she was very chipper when she said
this.) We could see the North Korean border, and she pointed out that you could
tell the landscape was different because there were no trees – they had been
cut down for fuel.
We didn’t go into the DMZ itself, but to the border and
looked over. You couldn’t take photos there, or at least you had to stand back
behind this yellow line that blocked any decent shots. It was also fairly foggy
at that point, so viewing was lost on me.
After signing the Panmunjom treaty, North Korea didn’t play
nice like they’d promised and started building tunnels – four of them found so
far – to Seoul, in an attempt to at some point invade the city.
It didn’t work, and now tourists can visit (but not
photograph) the third tunnel that was discovered.
It was really creepy. You walk down this steep slope for
about five minutes and then walk through rock, essentially, for another five
before you reach a wall. The tunnel goes farther, but that’s all tourists can
get to. It’s really short – you have to wear a helmet and I smacked my head
several times – and I would totally get claustrophobic in there if I thought
too much about it.
Oddly, it was a lot easier to walk up the steep slope than
down. Down I kept feeling like I was going to lose my balance and just roll.
That would have been painful.
We also visited a railway station, but there weren’t any
trains. It’s the last stop in South Korea
and the goal was to get North Korea
to meet it, which would then have a consecutive rail service from South Korea all the way to Britain. But
North Koreans don’t play nice.
Anyway, that was fun. I also ate Krispy Kreme, which was
also fun.
Seoul
has, just so you know, more coffee shops and more cosmetics/face stories than
any place I’ve ever seen. There was a Starbucks at least every three blocks and
then the cosmetic stores were just everywhere. I had forgotten my Chapstick (or
maybe I lost it; I’m back now and I still haven’t found it) but didn’t have to
worry because I could just try a tester every time I needed something.
I had a lousy breakfast the last day. I really wanted
something like scrambled eggs or something like that, but no dice. All the
coffee shops are just patisseries and things like that. I didn’t want bread.
Finally, I went into the French Baguette place and found the
world’s worst ham and egg sandwich. It turned out to be a boiled egg, not
scrambled. I’ve maintained this whole time I don’t like hard-boiled eggs and
boy, was I right. I could barely choke it down.
But it was a weird experience overall. When I went in, I
realized the song playing was pure country. Blake Shelton, to be exact.
There is something inordinately odd about being in Korea, at
what’s purported to be a French restaurant and hear the words “chew tobacco,
chew tobacco, chew tobacco, spit” coming over the speaker. It reminded me of
when I was having the Christmas dinner in Indonesia and heard Toby Keith’s
voice. At least that was Christmas music. This was just bizarre.
Anyway I’m back, and of course the back part is always the
most stressful.
The absolute BEST perk I’ve experienced is the diplomatic
immigration line, but back in China,
it’s sort of diluted and called a “special lane.” This means that all kinds of
random people wind up there.
Yesterday, it was dumb Australian tourists. I got behind
four of them, all in their 20s or so and pretty stupid. Beyond congregating the
area (hello, see the sign that says one at a time, stand behind the yellow
line?) they didn’t fill out or filled out incorrectly their landing cards,
didn’t have the right boarding pass, etc.
I was almost to the front and someone wheeled up a perfectly
healthy man who happened to be a in wheelchair. Why he got moved to the front I
don’t know. No problem with him using the “special lane,” but the front? Hmm…
Before he’d even been shuffled through, two MORE Australian
tourists jumped in front, too. I was ready to scream. Fortunately, another
“special lane” opened and I finally made it through and onto the metro.
So next up is hopefully Bangladesh. I actually had the
ticket on my screen yesterday and was ready to pull the trigger until I
realized I haven’t formally asked for the time off. I think I should do that
first.